This happened a few weekends ago and I know it’s long overdue but still I feel like Bornholm really deserves a shout-out so here it goes. So this summer, my bf and I were talking about going somewhere for a short vacation. Since the summer was so good, we thought that we would make the most of it by traveling around here, Sweden and especially Skåne. Several options came to our mind: Gotland, Öland, Bornholm, Ven, etc; basically all the islands we could think of. In the end, we chose Bornholm since the island looks close enough and big enough for a good weekend getaway. Also, Bornholm belongs to Denmark so it would make us feel like we’re finally going abroad. We were also torn between making it a biking/camping trip or just a leisure trip where we could just chill on the beach under the sweet sweet sun that we see so rarely here without worrying about where to sleep at night. It was easy to choose the later. Yet, none of our imagined glorious trip happened as it was raining quite heavily that whole weekend. Who would have thought eh? Still, we did have a good time in Bornholm. The weather couldn't take away Bornholm's beautiful nature and I bet it could only get better in sunny days.
Bornholm is a lovely island situated on the east side of Skåne. We took the train from Malmö to Ystad and then from Ystad took the ferry to the island. The train ride took about an hour and the ferry ride took about one and half hour. Pretty easily reached eh? Ferry return ticket costed 150 SEK per person. I don't know if the price for ferry ticket differs if you buy from Bornholm, but consider it's Denmark, I automatically assumed that prices will be higher at the Bornholm end. The easiest way to get around here is by bus. Biking would be a great option too if you have the time and nice weather. There's conveniently a bus station right next to the ferry terminal. However, there's no ticket vending machine so you can only buy bus tickets from the bus driver with cash or Mobile Pay (I assume this option only works for Danish because in Sweden we use Swish instead..). Stacking on some Danish cash before the trip would be useful, since otherwise you would have to give up the first bus you found and walked to the city center to look for an ATM or the ticket office (which does not open during weekend) like we did.
There are 5 zones in Bornholm thus the ticket price goes up accordingly. If you travel a lot or in groups, you can buy the klippekort which gives you a much better price at 50% discount and allows you to share it among others. For example, if you travel in pair, you can use the same klippekort and clip it twice into the machine. Easy peasy. For more details about the zones and different types of ticket, you can check out www.bat.dk or get a brochure on the bus. The website is all in Danish so it would be quite confusing to navigate for non-Nordics like me. Plus, like any small city, the buses here don't run exactly on time as schedule. We had a bit of bad luck with the bus once. It was supposed to be the last bus 8 on that Sunday afternoon and it didn't come at all. Or maybe it came too early and we totally missed it. Anyways, we were 1 hour of driving away from our Airbnb and desperate to go back for the night. Luckily, with the help of a friendly bus driver from a different bus, we still got to spend that night cozily in bed.
There are so many places that we planned to visit in Bornholm. Yet since we had only one weekend, we had to narrow it down to 2 places: Hammershus and Helligdomsklipperne. The trail at both places were amazingly spectacular despite of bad weather. We especially loved the scenic trail along the coast from Hammershus to Sandvig. Every turn was a new surprise by nature. I have to say that it was the best trail I've ever done in my life so far so if you come to Bornholm, this trail is definitely a must. Helligdomsklipperne (literally translated as holy cliffs or sanctuary cliffs) was another beauty. Here you can find magnificent wind-shaped rocky cliffs that would take your breath away, both figuratively and literally because the stairs leading to the rocks were steep and long, and also because I didn’t realize how serious my acrophobia was until that moment. It can get real scary guys. Still, the view was amazing and I would die to go there again on a warm sunny day. Such a shame I didn’t take any good photos of those cliffs, cuz you know cold rainy weather and acrophobia aren’t my good photo friends.
As mentioned before, our original plan was to have another biking/camping trip in Bornholm. However, after a serious research on camping rules and camping sites there, we decided not to (at least this time) and here’s the reason why. Unlike in Sweden where the Right to Roam is in practice, in Denmark the rules are pretty strict when it comes to camping. I found this link extremely helpful for anyone considering camping in Denmark or Bornholm in particular. It’s everything you need to know about camping there. Perhaps we’ll do it next summer when we feel completely ready and knowledgable about this whole thing.