Last summer I had the chance to discover the real beauty of Skåne through my 5-day bike trip. This trip somehow made my relationship with this place in the world where I'm living in a little bit better. It's like seeing a bit of clear sky after days of gloominess and knowing that you can still have beautiful sunny days here no matter how rare they are. The summers here are never perfect. Anyone who lives here can give you a long rant about how shitty it is. But when it's good, it's just really good. Some of the moments that I had on the road during this trip were actually the best summer moments of my life.
Our itinerary was simple, and rather flexible because we can just camp anywhere for the night, which we always decided only one night in advance. Usually we would bike during the day, occasionally stop somewhere along the road for a snack and a fika if we get too tired. We would also bike to a supermarket everyday so we can get all the food we need for the big dinner and breakfast for the next morning. Around 5pm is the time when we would try to find a good place to set up our camp, collect woods for the fire and start making dinner. That was my most favorite part of the day when we get to explore a new camping ground, choosing a good spot for the tent, wandering around picking up branches for the fire and accidentally tumbling upon wild mushrooms and berries on the way. Late July was a great time for raspberries and bilberries so we got them abundantly in the forest. We were lucky enough to find a bunch of chanterelle mushroom one afternoon that we gladly sautéed with butter and a bit of spring onion for the next morning toasts.
So we started from Malmö, biked our way to the East Coast of Skåne, then headed to Smedstorp to catch a train home with a bike on our last day.
Day 1: Malmö - Dalby Stenbrott
We started our trip in the afternoon from Malmö, biked straight to Dalby Stenbrott lake and camped there for the first night. The weather was terrible, all rainy and windy. You know how it is if you have ever been to Malmö. My god I was absolutely not ready for biking my ass off in that weather. At one point we even agreed that this trip doesn't make any sense but we're doing it anyway. I'm glad that we stick till the end in hindsight. First days are always the hardest days anyway. Dalby Stenbrott was a very nice small lake-filled quarry with quite high cliffs on the side, a perfect spot for lake jumping if you're into that kind of thing. I didn't do anything with the lake because I was already cold and wet from the rain. This is a popular spot for youngster to come here to swim and party through the night.
Day 2: Dalby Stenbrott - Vombsjön
Our second day was nice and easy. We kinda got the hang of biking at this point. Again we tried to aim for another lake to camp for the night. This time it was Vombsjön, a fairly big lake with nice beaches along the sides. The water here was so clear that I could even see schools of small fishes swiming while standing on the shore. We crossed Klingavälsån natural reserve on the way here. This natural reserve is home to many endangered bird species and we were quite lucky to spot some of them during our ride.
Day 3: Vombsjön - Sjöbo - Attusa
The third day we aimed for the East Coast but it was quite a trip so we decided to just stop in the middle and find a nice spot in the forest to camp. This happened to be in Attusa. Before that we swung by Sjöbo, a nice lovely town for beer and pizza just because we freaking deserved it.
Day 4: Attusa - Vitaby - Vitemölla - Haväng - Sankt Olof
This forth day we planned to take it easy, just browsing around and enjoying ourselves with the nature. But in the end it turned out to be our hardest day of all... Me and Max got to spend this day to ourselves and our original plan was to visit Vitaby, a town nearby and then head to Vitemölla in the East Coast for swimming and just chilling on the beach. Then William called and said they were at Haväng and we should meet up there. We checked the map and the shortest route was only 7km from where we were then. Sweet. The problem was we didn't realize we were passing through another nature reserve area (Verkeåns dalgång it's called) until it was too late. The road was sandy and hilly and god, we had to walk our bike almost the whole way there. We even ended up in Haväng skjutfält - the shooting range of Haväng military area without knowing. Only until we crossed to the other side of the wire did we see the "life danger" sign. So for all the bikers who want to bike to Haväng from Vitemölla, take the bigger road, it might be a bit longer on the map but it is definitely an easier one.
There is a cute local organic cafe near Haväng beach where they serve cafe with light homemade snacks and sell local produce like honey and meat. They raise their own horses, cows and lambs here. We had a Medelhavsmaka, which was a sandwich with lamb, feta cheese, pesto, spinach and a bit of onion. I love the fact that everything in that sandwich was from the farm. Homemade bread, farm-raised lamb, I bet they make their own soft cheese and grow their own veggies too.
Although now that everything is over I'm actually happy that we passed by that nature reserve area for the views were amazing. Still we were too tired and felt too betrayed by the map to appreciate them fully. After chilling at Haväng beach we headed to Sankt Olof where William's dad has a summer house. We got invited to a proper dinner and got to camp in their lovely backyard. The road from Haväng to Sankt Olof is another struggle. It was mostly uphills and those hills just stretch for miles. Together with the headwind you would feel like dying on your bike, seriously. So be prepared if you ever take the same route.
Day 5: Sankt Olof - Smedstorp - train to Malmö
Our last day was an easy bike to Smedstorp for the train station to head back to Malmö. We even got the chance to visit the famous bakery in Sankt Olof called Byvägen35 before we were on our way. They serve fresh baked breads, cinnamon buns and cakes every morning. I heard they serve amazing food too but sadly we only had time for coffee and their tasty bun. Do check their shop out if you go to Sankt Olof.
That was basically our 5 days of being on the bike, sleeping in tent and eating BBQ for dinner. Hope this summer I would be able to do more trips like this to continue strengthening my relationship with this land.